Mikao Usui came to Mt Kurama in March 1922, where he undertook a 21-day period of fasting and meditation. According to Reiki tradition, it was during this retreat that he experienced a profound spiritual awakening and discovered Reiki. After returning to Kyoto, he began teaching and practising Reiki, later establishing the Usui Reiki Ryōhō Gakkai. Mt Kurama has therefore become an important place in Reiki history, and for Reiki practitioners, walking this mountain is a way of connecting with the origins of the practice.

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My journey up Kurama Dera was a very meaningful experience for me as a Reiki Teacher. I was privileged to be part of a group led by Reiki historian Justin Stein, whose knowledge, insights and beautiful energy made the journey all that much more special.

We started at Kurama Station, just a short journey by train from Kyoto. We were greeted by a statue of the Tengu, the mysterious characters from Japanese folklore with their red faces and long noses. According to legend, the King of the Tengu on Mt Kurama, Sojobo, trained one of the most famous Japanese samurai, Minamoto no Yoshitsune.

The walk begins with beautiful stone steps and red lanterns leading up the mountain. I would love to return someday to see this path lit up at night during the Kurama Fire Festival.

Not far into the walk, we stopped for a dunking under the waterfall, a ritual cleanse, before continuing slowly up the mountain. A little further alond I made an offering at Yuki Shrine and spent some time admiring the enormous 800-year-old cedar tree. We don’t know which route Usui climbed when he came to Mt Kurama, but I like to think that perhaps he passed beneath this tree too, pausing for a moment to feel its energy.

The path itself is beautiful and well maintained. There is an option to take a cable car for part of the journey, but I really recommend walking. It is not difficult if you take your time, and there is something special about making your way up the mountain on foot.

We reached the main hall of Kurama-dera Temple, with the Kongosho, the sacred star-shaped and triangular design marked on the stone pavement directly in front of the hall. It is considered a power spot, and I stood there with an open heart, mind and soul, drawing in universal energy. What a privilege to stand in this spot.

I was also drawn, almost magnetically, towards a large rock directly in front of the Kongosho, opposite the main hall. Justin explained that sutras are buried beneath it. Standing close to the rock, I could feel an overwhelming energy. My chest constricted and it became difficult to breathe.

We then attended a ceremony in the main hall. It was extremely powerful and moving as the priestess read out our names and blessings. Afterwards, Justin led us beneath the temple hall into a dark underground section of passageways lined with jars. Members of the sect can pay to have a cutting of their hair left here, so that a part of them always remains on Kurama. It was a fascinating and very different part of the journey.

From the temple complex, we continued further up and across the mountain,  reaching the area of exposed roots where Mikao Usui is believed to have kicked his toe and performed the first Reiki miracle. Beyond this is the area where Usui is said to have meditated during his 21-day fasting retreat. It was here that our group came together in a Reiki circle and practised Reiki Mawashi. Afterwards, we sat together on a giant log and the Reiki Masters among us offered Reiju.

This was particularly special for me as one of my students, Iuliana, who was in my very first Reiki Level 1 course and later became my very first Reiki Master, was part of the group. To have her offer Reiju to me on Mt Kurama was a very humbling experience. It was one of those moments that felt particularly significant in my own Reiki journey.

We then continued down the other side of the mountain on a mountain path towards Kibune village. The energy felt very different on this side of Mt Kurama. It was more raw and more wild, and somehow the stories of the tengu felt very real here, almost tangible.

The trail passes Sojogaya Fudo Hall, which houses a statue of Fudo Myo-o and is said to be the area where the King of the Tengu trained the samurai Minamoto.

We also passed Maoden Shrine, which marks the spot where Mao-Son is said to have arrived from Venus 6.5 million years ago.. Maoden was another highlight for me. I recommend spending some time sitting inside, looking out towards the rocks. I found it to be an incredibly powerful spot energetically and one of the places on the Kurama journey that stayed with me.

Eventually the trail brought us to Kifune Shrine, honouring the gods of rain and water. Surrounded by lush green and with the journey through Mt Kurama behind us, it felt like a beautiful place to end the day.

Walking Mt Kurama was much more than simply a mountain walk for me. To walk in the footsteps of the history and traditions of Reiki, with a group of people who shared that connection, made this a very special day that I will remember for a long time.

Date of Visit: 18 May 2026